Melasma & Dark Spots: How to Tell the Difference and Choose the Right Skincare
"Dark spots" is a description, not a diagnosis. Brown patches across the cheeks, marks left behind by a spot, red-pink shadows after acne and isolated freckle-like spots can all look similar in the mirror, and they do not all respond to the same ingredients. This guide explains the patterns people most often describe, why sun protection matters more here than almost anywhere else in skincare, which ingredient directions have the strongest evidence, and which products you probably do not need to buy.
Uneven pigmentation comes in different patterns, and they behave differently. Melasma-like patches tend to be chronic and recur; marks left after acne or irritation usually fade slowly on their own once the inflammation stops; red-pink post-acne marks are not mainly a pigment problem at all. Across all of them, daily photoprotection is more foundational than adding another serum, and one well-chosen treatment product is normally a better starting point than three.
What people usually mean by "melasma and dark spots"
Most people arrive at this subject with the same sentence: my skin tone is uneven and I want it evened out. That is a completely reasonable goal. The difficulty is that the phrase covers several different things happening in the skin, and a product aimed at one of them can be a poor match for another — or, on skin that is currently irritated, actively counterproductive.
The American Academy of Dermatology makes this point in its own guidance on fading dark spots: it advises continuing to address the underlying cause — treating the skin condition that produced the marks — rather than only working on the discolouration itself. That single idea reorders most people's routines.
So rather than looking for one universal dark-spot product, it is usually more useful to consider which pattern most closely resembles what you are seeing, check whether your skin is currently comfortable enough to treat, and then choose one ingredient direction and give it real time.
These patterns overlap, and it is common to have more than one at the same time — melasma-like patches on the cheeks alongside acne marks on the jaw, for example, or old sun spots alongside newer discolouration. The groupings below are a way of thinking about the problem, not a set of separate conditions, and none of them is something you can confirm from a photograph. A healthcare professional can tell you far more than a website can.
Which pattern most closely resembles what you are seeing?
| Pattern | What people usually describe | Common context | Why it matters for what you use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Melasma-like patches | Larger brown, tan or grey-brown patches with soft, irregular edges, often fairly symmetrical across cheeks, forehead, upper lip or chin | Strongly linked to sun exposure; also associated with pregnancy and other hormonal influences. It can persist and recur | Sun protection is not a finishing step here, it is the treatment. Expect management rather than a one-off fix |
| Brown marks left after inflammation | Flat brown or grey-brown marks sitting exactly where a spot, scratch, ingrown hair or rash used to be | Follows acne, eczema flares, picking, shaving, insect bites or product irritation | Stopping the thing causing the inflammation usually matters more than the fading product. Many of these fade on their own over months |
| Red or pink marks after acne | Flat pink, red or purplish marks after a spot settles — colour rather than brownness | Common after inflammatory acne, especially with picking or squeezing | This is mainly a redness pattern rather than excess pigment. A melanin-focused serum may simply be aimed at the wrong target |
| Isolated sun-spot-like marks | Smaller, more sharply defined tan-to-brown spots, often on the areas that catch the most sun, with more of them appearing over the years | Long-term cumulative sun exposure; DermNet describes these as increasing in number and size over time | Established spots respond least well to cosmetic products. Prevention outperforms correction here |
Notice what is missing from that table: skin type. Whether your skin is oily, dry or combination mainly changes which vehicle and level of moisturisation feel comfortable. Sensitivity and barrier state are separate dimensions, and they are what more directly change how cautiously an active should be introduced. Neither changes the underlying pigment biology. We come back to texture later, in the section on choosing a formula, because that is where it genuinely belongs.
When a dark spot should be looked at rather than treated
Before any of the rest of this is relevant: cosmetic skincare is for benign, stable pigmentation. Some pigmented marks need a medical eye, and a brightening routine is exactly the wrong response to them.
The AAD's ABCDEs of melanoma are a widely used prompt: Asymmetry, an irregular or poorly defined Border, more than one Colour within a single spot, Diameter larger than a pencil eraser, and — most important of all — Evolving, meaning any change in size, shape, colour or elevation.
The AAD also advises seeing a board-certified dermatologist about a spot that looks different from the rest of the spots on your skin, or one that itches, bleeds or is painful. A mark that crusts, ulcerates or will not heal belongs in the same category.
Separately from pigmentation, stop self-treating and seek assessment if you have deep, painful or scarring acne, spreading redness or warmth, any eye involvement, or a persistent unexplained rash. And if a mark simply worries you, that is reason enough to have it looked at — you do not need to justify it.
Why melasma-like pigmentation behaves differently
Marks left behind after a spot are, broadly, pigment that has already been made and now has to clear. Melasma-like pigmentation is different: it involves skin that keeps being prompted to make more pigment. That distinction explains most of what people find frustrating about it.
A 2026 international expert consensus on managing melanin hyperpigmentation disorders, published in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, describes management as needing to address more than pigment cells alone — the surrounding skin environment matters too, including blood vessels and other cell types. It also notes that these conditions are prone to treatment resistance and recurrence, and that some treatments can make pigmentation worse.
Three practical consequences follow. Improvement usually needs sustained, unglamorous consistency rather than a strong product used briefly. Recurrence is common, which means a maintenance phase matters as much as a treatment phase. And anything that inflames the skin can feed the same process — which is why the next section comes before the ingredient section rather than after it.
If your skin is currently stinging or peeling, start here
Adilsons Beauty works barrier-first: we support the skin barrier before adding treatment actives. In pigmentation that is not just a general preference, it is the specific risk. Inflammation is one of the routes by which brown marks appear in the first place, so a routine that irritates the skin in pursuit of faster brightening can quietly work against itself.
The AAD puts it plainly in its dark-spot guidance: use skin care products that are gentle on your skin, and if a product burns or stings when you apply it, stop using it. Its melasma self-care guidance similarly recommends choosing gentle, fragrance-free products.
So if your skin is currently stinging from things that never used to sting, flaking, feeling tight hours after washing, or reacting to products it previously tolerated, the useful move is to pause the treatment products, keep cleansing gentle, moisturise, and keep wearing sunscreen. Sun protection stays. Everything else can wait.
"If your skin is stinging or peeling right now, the honest answer is that a brightening serum is the wrong purchase this week. Settle the skin first — the pigment will still be there, and you will get further with one product than with four."
— Ashfaq Ramjaun, FCCA, MBA, Co-Founder & CMO, Adilsons BeautyFor that settling period, a straightforward panthenol or ceramide moisturiser is usually all that is needed. In our range, Purito Seoul Mighty Bamboo Panthenol Cream 100ml is a lighter option and Anua 3 Ceramide Panthenol Moisture Barrier Cream 100ml a more cushioning one. If you already own a plain moisturiser your skin is happy with, use that — this is not a step that needs a new purchase.
Photoprotection is the foundation of pigmentation management
For pigmentation, sunscreen is not the thing you add at the end because you should. It is the foundation the rest of the routine sits on, and treating pigment without it is treating and undoing in the same routine. That is truest for melasma-like patches and sun-spot patterns; where acne is still active, controlling the acne matters at least as much.
Three things to protect against, not one
Most people think of sunscreen as UV protection, and UVB and UVA are both genuinely important. But there is a third band that matters specifically here. The 2026 international consensus states that sunscreens for these conditions must protect against UVB, UVA and high-energy visible light, and that all skin tones need good visible-light protection to prevent worsening.
Standard sunscreens are engineered to filter UV. They are not designed to block visible light. The pigments that do that job are iron oxides — which is why the AAD's melasma and dark-spot guidance specifically recommends a tinted sunscreen containing iron oxide alongside an SPF of 30 or higher. As the AAD notes, iron oxide appears among the inactive ingredients rather than the active ones, because only UV filters are listed as actives.
There is no visible-light equivalent of SPF. The 2026 consensus says directly that guidance on a visible-light protection factor is still missing and recommendations are being developed. So you cannot read a number off a box and compare products, and a percentage of iron oxide on an ingredient list does not tell you how well a finished formula performs. Anyone quoting you a precise visible-light protection figure for a cosmetic product is going beyond what the labelling currently supports.
What that looks like in our range
Our range includes Beauty of Joseon Daily Tinted Fluid Sunscreen, in the shades LP100, MY210, MY220 and MN230. It is the most directly relevant product we carry for this purpose, and it is worth being precise about why — and about its limits.
What the manufacturer confirms. The formula uses zinc oxide at 20.9% as its only UV filter, and every shade lists iron oxides — CI 77491, CI 77492 and CI 77499 — among its ingredients. That is exactly the pigment combination the dermatology guidance is pointing at when it recommends a tinted sunscreen with iron oxide.
This is not an SPF 50 sunscreen, and the "50ML" some listings show is the bottle size, not the SPF. Beauty of Joseon labels the same formula SPF 40 in the United States and SPF 30 PA+++ in Europe, because the two regions test to different protocols. If you have been reading the volume as a protection figure, that is an easy mistake to make and worth correcting.
It matters practically. The 2026 international consensus recommends SPF 50 or higher for pigmentation disorders. So if UVB protection is your priority — long days outdoors, or skin that burns — this tinted fluid on its own is below that benchmark, and one of the SPF50+ PA++++ options below will serve you better for the UV half of the job.
What we cannot tell you. We have not identified any published visible-light testing of this finished product, or any figure for how much visible light it attenuates. It contains the right pigments; nobody has published what that delivers in this formula. That distinction is the whole reason the section above explains that no visible-light protection factor exists yet. It also contains alcohol denat., which is worth knowing if your skin is reactive.
The shade question is real. Beauty of Joseon produces this in twelve shades. We carry four of them. The 2026 consensus is candid that tinted sunscreens suit only a limited part of the population precisely because shade ranges are narrow, and that they are often a poor fit for very light skin, very deep skin and Asian skin tones. If none of our four shades matches you, forcing one is the wrong answer — a mismatched tint gets applied thinly, as makeup, which defeats the point.
If the tinted fluid does not suit you
The consensus sets out the alternative directly: use a well-balanced UVB/UVA non-tinted sunscreen, and add an iron-oxide-containing makeup product matched to your skin tone. Two parts, two jobs:
- A high-SPF, strong-UVA sunscreen does the UV work. Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh: Rice + B5 50ml is labelled SPF50+ PA++++, is fragrance-free, and uses a photostable filter set with strong UVA coverage in a light, fast-absorbing texture — a practical combination in warm, humid conditions. Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics 50ml is also SPF50+ PA++++ in a slightly more nourishing finish, and SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum 50ml is SPF50+ PA++++ in a watery serum texture if you want the lightest of the three.
- An iron-oxide-containing base worn on top can serve as the visible-light layer. TIRTIR Mask Fit Red Cushion 18g lists iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499) in its official ingredients and has the widest shade range we carry, which makes tone matching realistic across a broader range of complexions than the tinted fluid's four shades. The same honesty applies: it fits the consensus description of an iron-oxide makeup layer, but we have not identified finished-product testing quantifying its visible-light protection. It is makeup, labelled SPF40 PA++, so it does not replace your sunscreen — and it contains fragrance.
You can also combine the two approaches: an SPF50+ sunscreen for UV, with the tinted fluid or a matched cushion over it for the visible-light layer. Beauty of Joseon's own guidance suggests reapplying with a non-tinted sunscreen through the day, which fits that pattern.
Quantity and reapplication matter more than people expect
A sunscreen only delivers what its label says if you apply enough of it. The 2026 consensus gives a usable benchmark: apply an even layer of roughly a quarter of a teaspoon for the face, and reapply at least twice a day if you are regularly outdoors. The AAD's dark-spot guidance suggests reapplying every two hours, and after swimming or sweating, and pairs sunscreen with a wide-brimmed hat and avoiding the strongest part of the day.
In a warm, humid climate with strong sun for much of the year, sweat and rubbing are the practical enemies of that plan. Two things help: choosing a texture light enough that you will actually reapply it, and remembering that a tinted product used as makeup tends to get applied thinly, for looks, which is not the same as applying sunscreen properly.
If you are outdoors a lot, or your skin is oily and humid weather makes richer textures unwearable, then a light fluid or serum-textured sunscreen you will reapply is the more useful choice than a heavier one you avoid. If your skin is dry or you spend long stretches in air conditioning, then a more cushioning sunscreen, or a moisturiser underneath it, is likely to be more comfortable — the protection you need is the same either way.
The ingredient directions worth understanding
These are directions, not prescriptions, and the evidence behind them is not equally strong. One point applies to every ingredient below, so it is worth stating once: a study of an ingredient is not a study of a product. A trial showing that 4% niacinamide improved pigmentation does not prove that any particular serum containing niacinamide will do the same, because concentration, formulation, delivery and everything else in the bottle all matter.
Independent clinical evidence for an ingredient is the strongest, and it belongs to the ingredient, not to any product containing it. Manufacturer testing of a finished product is a real and useful step up from that — but it is conducted by the company selling it, and the reported change is often small. Haruharu Wonder, for example, publishes instrumental testing on its 4% TXA serum reporting improvements measured in low single-digit percentages over four weeks. AXIS-Y reports testing behind its Glow Cream that was run on the toner, serum and cream used together rather than the cream alone. Neither is a reason to dismiss the products; both are reasons to read the claim carefully. Mechanistic plausibility — this ingredient does something interesting in a laboratory model — is the weakest, and it is what most brightening marketing actually rests on.
None of the products in this article has independent clinical testing of the exact finished formula. That is normal for cosmetics and it is not a criticism. It is simply why we describe what a product contains and what the ingredient has been studied for, rather than telling you what the product will do.
Tranexamic acid
Tranexamic acid appears across a lot of Korean formulas and is one of the more interesting non-prescription directions. It is also a good test of whether we are willing to report evidence that is less flattering than the marketing.
A 2026 systematic review and meta-analysis in Dermatologic Therapy pooled 32 studies and 2,376 participants across 14 different comparisons. For its three main comparisons it found little to no difference between tranexamic acid and placebo, and little to no difference against hydroquinone, with substantial unexplained variation between studies and certainty rated from very low to moderate. The clearest signal was for tranexamic acid combined with hydroquinone versus hydroquinone alone — a prescription comparison, not a cosmetic one.
Two important caveats in both directions. That review pooled oral, injected and topical use together, so it is not a verdict on topical cosmetic tranexamic acid specifically. Equally, it does not license the confident claims made for tranexamic acid serums. The defensible position is that topical tranexamic acid is a reasonable, generally well-tolerated option worth trying — not a proven or clearly superior one.
It also means a higher percentage is not automatically better. Published formulations span a wide range, no optimum has been established, and a 6% product is not "stronger medicine" than a 2% one in any way the evidence supports. Choose on formulation, texture and tolerance rather than on the number on the front.
Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid is a logical direction to consider when pigmentation and active breakouts coexist, because it works on both rather than treating marks while spots keep forming. It has a longer clinical history in melasma than most cosmetic ingredients, though the strongest of that evidence used higher concentrations than cosmetic formulas contain — so a 10% cosmetic serum should be understood as a lower-strength route into the same ingredient, not as equivalent to prescription strengths.
It is also the pigmentation direction with the most reassuring position in pregnancy, which we come back to below. It can sting or tingle at first, which is why manufacturers advise building up slowly rather than starting daily.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide is genuinely useful and unusually well tolerated, and it supports the barrier as well as working on pigment transfer. The concentration point is the one that gets distorted in marketing: the direct human melasma evidence sits around 4–5%, and there is no good evidence that 10% or 20% performs proportionally better for pigmentation. Higher percentages mostly increase the chance of flushing or stinging in sensitive skin.
If a 10% or higher niacinamide product suits your skin and you like it, there is no reason to abandon it. But a high percentage is not a reason to choose one product over another for dark spots.
Alpha-arbutin
Alpha-arbutin is a gentle, straightforward option and its formulas are usually simple, which has real value if you are cautious about reacting. Its human evidence for melasma is more limited than for azelaic acid or tranexamic acid, so we would position it as a reasonable alternative rather than the strongest available direction. Under EU cosmetic rules alpha-arbutin is restricted to 2% in face products, which is why well-formulated products cluster at that level — a regulatory safety ceiling, not a proven optimum.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is worth separating into two things that get sold as one. Pure L-ascorbic acid needs a low pH, which can sting and destabilises over time. Derivatives such as 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid are formulated differently, are often gentler, and cannot simply inherit the evidence generated by L-ascorbic acid. Both are reasonable as antioxidant support alongside sun protection; neither is the clearest first choice for melasma-like pigmentation when irritation is a concern.
Kojic acid
Kojic acid appears in a number of brightening formulas, usually at low levels, and EU rules restrict it to 1% in face and hand products. Contact sensitisation is a recognised issue with it, so it is not our first suggestion for reactive skin, and it is often present as a supporting ingredient rather than the main event.
Retinoids and exfoliating acids
Both can contribute, and neither is a starting point. Retinoids work slowly on pigmentation — meaningful change in controlled studies took months, with irritation common along the way — which makes them a poor first move for someone whose barrier is already unsettled. They are more logical later, and particularly where acne or photoageing overlap.
Exfoliation is not mandatory for pigmentation, despite how often it is framed that way. Used sparingly it can help surface marks clear; used enthusiastically it creates exactly the inflammation that produces brown marks in the first place. If you are already using a pigment active, adding an acid is usually the point at which people tip from treating into irritating.
Retinoids should be avoided in pregnancy and when trying to conceive. That is settled guidance and it applies to cosmetic retinol and retinal as well as prescription forms.
Azelaic acid has the most reassuring professional position of the pigmentation directions here, which is why it is the one we would point to first if pregnancy is relevant.
Topical tranexamic acid is a genuine unknown, and we will not pretend otherwise. Melasma trials routinely exclude pregnant and breastfeeding participants, so the pregnancy-specific data simply do not exist. Low expected absorption is a reasonable expectation, not evidence of safety. We are not going to tell you it is safe, and we are not going to tell you it is dangerous — we are telling you nobody has established it, and that this is a question for your doctor or midwife.
The same "insufficient evidence, ask a clinician" position applies to alpha-arbutin and kojic acid. And breastfeeding is not automatically the same as pregnancy: they are assessed separately, ingredient by ingredient, so treat blanket lists that merge the two with caution.
Which direction may fit which situation
Patterns overlap and people do not fit neatly into categories, so read these as starting points rather than rules.
If your marks are broad, symmetrical patches and sun exposure clearly makes them worse, then the priority order is photoprotection first, one pigment-directed product second — and the honest expectation is management over time rather than clearance. If your marks sit exactly where old spots were and you are still breaking out, then settling the breakouts is likely to do more than any fading serum, and azelaic acid is the direction that addresses both.
If the marks are red or pink rather than brown, then a pigment-inhibiting serum may be aimed at the wrong target, and gentle, non-irritating care while the redness settles is usually more sensible than escalating actives. If you have a mix of brown and red marks, then treat the pattern that bothers you most and give it time, rather than layering something for each.
If your skin reacts easily or you have had trouble with actives before, then the adjustment is fewer ingredients and lower frequency, not a different pigment mechanism — a simple, fragrance-free formula used twice a week and built up slowly. If you are pregnant or trying to conceive, then the sensible position is sun protection plus, at most, one well-tolerated option discussed with your clinician, with retinoids left out entirely.
If you have had a peel, laser or other procedure recently, then follow the aftercare you were given rather than this article, and reintroduce actives only once the skin has fully settled. If pigmentation has not shifted despite months of consistent sun protection and one appropriate product, then the next step is professional assessment rather than a fourth serum.
Finding the pathway that fits your situation
This section works differently from the rest of the article. The tables below list everything in our range for each job, with what the manufacturer actually discloses. The pathways underneath tell you which single row to pick. Browse the tables; act on the pathways.
Three questions, in this order:
- Which pattern am I dealing with? Sets the ingredient direction.
- What state is my skin in right now? Can override the answer to question one entirely.
- Which formula suits my skin and my life? Changes the texture, not the active.
Skin state outranks skin type. Irritated dry skin and irritated oily skin get the same answer — wait. Pregnancy, recent procedures and current prescriptions override all of it.
Some brands publish exactly how much active is in the bottle. Many do not. We have marked each product Disclosed, Partly disclosed or Not disclosed based on the manufacturer's own documentation — not on the product name, and not on what a retailer wrote.
This matters more than it sounds. A product name is marketing; a percentage is a fact. Where a brand does not publish one, we cannot compare that product against the clinical literature, and neither can you. That is not a reason to avoid it — it is a reason not to assume it is equivalent to a product that does publish one.
The photoprotection layer: which products contain iron oxides
As explained above, iron oxides are the pigments that add visible-light protection. Here is every product in our range confirmed to contain them, checked against manufacturer ingredient lists.
| Product | SPF / PA | Shade approach | Fragrance & oils | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| SKIN1004 Tone Brightening Tone-Up Sunscreen 50ml | SPF50+ PA++++ | Single tone-up | Reported free of chemical fragrance | Also contains niacinamide and tranexamic acid — see the overlap table below |
| COSRX Aloe 54.2 Aqua Tone-Up Sunscreen 50ml | SPF50+ PA++++ | Single tone-up | No fragrance or essential oils in the ingredient list | The only one here our product data rates as leaving no cast on deeper skin |
| Beauty of Joseon Daily Tinted Fluid Sunscreen — LP100, MY210, MY220, MN230 | SPF 40 US / 30 EU | 4 of the brand's 12 shades | Fragrance-free; contains alcohol denat. | Zinc oxide 20.9% is the only filter. Read the SPF caution above |
| Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Tone Up Sunscreen 50ml | SPF50+ PA++++ | Pink tone-up | Chamomile flower oil, pine leaf oil | Iron oxides sit at the end of the ingredient list |
| d'Alba Waterfull Tone-Up Sun Cream (Pink) 50ml | SPF50+ | Pink correcting | Orange, mandarin and litsea oils; limonene, citral | The Purple version of this product uses ultramarines instead and contains no iron oxides |
| Numbuzin No.3 Porcelain Base-Skip Tone Up Beige 50ml | SPF50+ PA++++ | Single beige | Rosemary leaf oil, tea tree; some versions list fragrance | Zinc oxide + titanium dioxide. Iron oxides are the last three entries |
| TIRTIR Mask Fit Red Cushion 18g | SPF40 PA++ | 21N to 47N — the widest range we carry | Contains fragrance | Makeup, not a sunscreen replacement |
| Purito Wonder Releaf Centella BB Cream #15 | SPF30 PA+++ | One shade stocked | No fragrance in the ingredient list | Mineral filters, with niacinamide, centella and panthenol. The gentlest of the makeup options |
| TIRTIR Mask Fit Aura Cushion (mini) | SPF30 PA++ | 5 shades stocked | Fragrance; alcohol denat. | Lower SPF than the Red Cushion |
| MISSHA M Perfect Cover BB Cream — 21, 25, 27 | SPF42 PA+++ | 3 shades stocked | Fragrance with eight declared allergens | Also contains talc, mineral oil and parabens |
| MISSHA Magic Cushion Cover Lasting — 21, 23 | SPF50+ PA+++ | 2 shades stocked | Fragrance, peppermint, eucalyptus | — |
| 3W Clinic UV Sun Block BB Cream | SPF50+ PA+++ | Single shade | Fragrance, mineral oil, parabens | The lowest-cost iron-oxide option we carry |
We checked these and they contain no iron oxides, so they do not add visible-light protection however they are marketed: d'Alba Waterfull Tone-Up (Purple) — coloured with ultramarines; Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Dark Spot Tone Up Cream — zinc oxide and titanium dioxide only, despite the name, and it contains bergamot and orange peel oils; TOCOBO Blur Finish Sun Cushion 00 Pure; and heimish Artless Glow Base, which uses titanium dioxide, mica and carmine.
They are all perfectly reasonable sunscreens or bases. They are simply not doing the job this section is about, and "tone-up" on a label tells you nothing either way.
The UV layer: high-protection sunscreens without tint
If you use an iron-oxide base or cushion from the table above, this is what goes underneath it. Choose on texture, because texture decides whether you reapply.
| Texture | Option | Why you might choose it |
|---|---|---|
| Watery, fastest-absorbing | Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh: Rice + B5 50ml | Fragrance-free, strong photostable UVA filter set. A sensible default in heat and humidity |
| Watery serum | SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum 50ml | The lightest finish of the three; also sold in 15ml if you want to test it first |
| Lightweight, slightly richer | Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics 50ml | A more nourishing finish without becoming heavy |
We stock a great many other SPF50+ PA++++ sunscreens, including gels, sticks and creams. Any of them does the UV job. These three are listed because their textures cover the range most people are choosing between.
The treatment layer: every pigment-directed product we stock
Pick one row from this table. Not one from each family — one, full stop. The pathways below tell you which family fits your situation; this table tells you what is actually in the bottle.
| Product | What the brand discloses | Disclosure | Texture | Worth knowing |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| SKIN1004 Tone Brightening Capsule Ampoule 30 / 50 / 100ml | Niacinamide 40,000 ppm (4%) · TXA 20,000 ppm (2%) · 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid | Disclosed | Watery | Lowest active concentrations here. Fragrance-free and alcohol-free |
| Haruharu Wonder Centella 4% TXA Dark Spot Go Away Serum 30ml | TXA 4% · niacinamide 4% | Disclosed | Lightweight | Only 17 ingredients, fragrance-free. A TXA-led multi-active, not a single-active serum |
| Anua Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum 30ml / 10ml | Niacinamide 10% · TXA 4% · arbutin 2% | Disclosed | Lightweight | Three pigment actives in one bottle. Best used as a replacement, not an addition |
| COS DE BAHA Tranexamic Serum 60ml | TXA 5% · niacinamide 5% | Disclosed | Lightweight, aloe base | 15 ingredients, fragrance-free. The brand itself warns its formulas can sting sensitive skin — patch-test |
| NINE LESS Mela-Pro Tranexamic Acid Serum 30ml | TXA 50,490 ppm (≈5%) · niacinamide 2% · glutathione | Disclosed — in the ingredient list itself | Lightweight | The most transparent label of the group. Contains spearmint extract |
| Medicube TXA Niacinamide 15 Serum 30ml | Niacinamide 100,000 ppm (10%) · TXA 50,000 ppm (5%) · arbutin 2% | Disclosed | Lightweight | Marketed as having no artificial fragrance, but contains rose flower oil |
| April Skin TXA Niacinamide Toning Shot 99 Serum 30ml | TXA 3% · niacinamide 5% · alpha-arbutin | Disclosed | Jelly, with spicules | The "99" is the purity of the TXA, not its concentration. Also contains betaine salicylate and gluconolactone, so it exfoliates as well — a poor first choice if the aim is low irritation |
| NINE LESS B-Boost 1% Kojic Acid Serum 30ml | Kojic acid 1% · niacinamide 10% · TXA 2% | Disclosed | Lightweight | Free of alcohol, fragrance and essential oils. Kojic acid can sensitise some people |
| Purito Seoul TXA 6 Niacinamide 10 Retinal Serum 30ml | TXA 6% · niacinamide 10% · retinal | Disclosed | Two-phase, shake before use | Contains retinal — not suitable in pregnancy or when trying to conceive. Only for skin already used to retinoids |
| Round Lab Vita Niacinamide Dark Spot Serum 30ml | Niacinamide 50,000 ppm (5%) · TXA present, amount not stated · 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid 107 ppm | Partly disclosed | Lightweight | The vitamin C is at about 0.01% — present, but not at a level worth choosing the product for |
| APLB Tranexamic Acid Niacinamide Ampoule Serum 40ml | TXA 1,000 ppm (0.1%) · niacinamide 1,000 ppm (0.1%) · centella leaf water 34.6% | Disclosed | Lightweight | Credit to the brand for publishing it. But at 0.1% these are a fraction of the levels used in pigmentation studies — this is a centella hydrating ampoule, and it is worth understanding that before comparing it with the serums above |
| Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum 30ml / 10ml | Azelaic acid 10% | Disclosed | Watery | Brand directs starting 1–2× weekly with 1–2 drops, building to twice daily. Also contains betaine salicylate |
| SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Azelaic Acid 10 Ampoule 30ml / 9ml | Azelaic acid 10%, plus two derivatives — brand states 11.5% total azelaic actives | Disclosed | Watery | Brand advises a pea-sized amount every other day for the first week |
| NINE LESS A-Control 10% Azelaic Acid Serum 30ml / 12ml | Azelaic acid 10% | Disclosed | Lightweight | The 12ml size is a low-cost way to test tolerance before committing |
| Anua Azelaic Acid Cica Skin Soothing Moisturizer 100ml | Azelaic acid 3% | Disclosed | Gel-cream | A moisturiser with a low azelaic level rather than a treatment serum. Contains rosemary, bergamot, geranium and grapefruit oils, despite some listings calling it fragrance-free |
| Purito Seoul Azelaic Acid 10 Kojic Tea Tree Serum 30ml | Azelaic acid 10% · kojic acid 1,000 ppm (0.1%) · tea tree water 10% | Disclosed | Lightweight | The kojic level is far below the 1–2% used in studies. Tea tree adds another irritation variable |
| Medicube Azelaic Acid 16 BB Calming Serum 30ml | Brand's own documentation says "azelaic acid complex" — no free-acid percentage published | Not disclosed | Lightweight | Retailers state 16%; the manufacturer does not. Azelaic acid is second on the ingredient list, so the level is clearly meaningful — but we cannot compare it with the clinical literature on a number the brand has not published |
| The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA 30ml | Alpha-arbutin 2% | Disclosed | Watery | The shortest ingredient list of any option here. 2% is the EU maximum for face products |
| AXIS-Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Cream 50ml | Alpha-arbutin 2% · niacinamide 5% · Ceramide NP | Disclosed | Gel-to-water cream | Doubles as your moisturiser. The brand's efficacy testing was run on its toner, serum and cream used together, not the cream alone |
| Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum: Rice + Alpha Arbutin 30ml / 60ml | Rice bran water, alpha-arbutin, niacinamide — no percentages published on the current page | Not disclosed | Lightweight | A pleasant, gentle formula. Older marketing quoted 2% arbutin; we cannot confirm that from current documentation |
| AXIS-Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum 50ml | Niacinamide 5% | Disclosed | Lightweight gel | Niacinamide only — no tranexamic acid, despite where it sometimes gets filed. Contains rosemary leaf oil |
Four products in our range have names that are easy to misread, so it is worth saying plainly which is which. April Skin's "99" refers to the purity of the tranexamic acid, not how much is in the bottle. Medicube's "16" is a complex the brand does not break down. Beauty of Joseon's tinted fluid shows 50ML, which is the bottle size, not the SPF. And APLB's tranexamic acid ampoule contains 0.1% of it.
None of these is a bad product. But you cannot tell a 5% tranexamic acid serum from a 0.1% one by reading the front of either box, and we would rather you knew that than found out by comparing prices.
Barrier support
| Option | Texture | When it fits |
|---|---|---|
| Purito Seoul Mighty Bamboo Panthenol Cream 100ml | Lighter cream | Panthenol-led. The default when skin is uncomfortable but not dry |
| Anua 3 Ceramide Panthenol Moisture Barrier Cream 100ml | More cushioning | When dryness is part of the picture |
If you already own a plain moisturiser your skin is happy with, use it. This is not a step that needs a new purchase.
Before you add anything: what overlaps with what
A large range creates a specific risk — buying two products that do the same job. These are the overlaps worth knowing about, and every one of them is a reason to buy less rather than more.
| If you already use… | You probably do not also need… | Why |
|---|---|---|
| SKIN1004 Tone Brightening Tone-Up Sunscreen | A separate niacinamide or TXA serum, at first | The sunscreen already carries both. Start with it alone and see where you get before adding a treatment product on top |
| Any serum from the treatment table | A second serum from the treatment table | Nearly all of them contain niacinamide. Two products means paying twice for the same ingredient and losing the ability to tell which one caused a reaction |
| Anua Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4%, or Medicube TXA Niacinamide 15 | A standalone niacinamide serum, or an arbutin serum | Both already contain niacinamide and arbutin alongside the TXA. These make sense as replacements for two or three products, not as additions |
| AXIS-Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Cream | A separate moisturiser and a separate pigment serum | It is both. That is the point of it |
| Purito TXA 6 Niacinamide 10 Retinal | A separate retinoid | Layering two retinoids is how people end up irritated, which sets pigmentation back |
| A brightening toner from any range | The matching serum and cream from that range | Ranges are built to be sold together. Pigmentation does not need four steps from one brand |
| Any exfoliating acid | Another exfoliating acid, or an acid-containing pigment serum | April Skin's serum, Anua's azelaic serum and Purito's azelaic serum all contain additional exfoliating ingredients. Stacking them with a separate acid is the most common route to irritation |
Which pathway fits your situation
Now the tables become a recommendation. Find your situation, take the one row indicated.
Pathway 1 — Your skin is currently irritated
This pathway exists to stop you buying a treatment product today.
Take: a barrier cream from the barrier table, if your current moisturiser is not enough. Keep wearing sunscreen — the lightest fragrance-free texture you can tolerate while skin is sore.
Do not take: anything from the treatment table. Not the gentle ones either. Come back when ordinary skincare feels comfortable again.
Pathway 2 — Melasma-like patches, skin comfortable
Photoprotection is the foundation and does not change between the options below. Add one treatment product.
| Your situation | Take | Or | Why the choice changes |
|---|---|---|---|
| New to pigment actives, or you want the fewest variables | SKIN1004 Tone Brightening Capsule Ampoule | The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA | Lowest concentrations and simplest formulas are easiest to introduce and easiest to blame if something goes wrong |
| You want tranexamic acid, simply formulated | Haruharu Wonder Centella 4% TXA | COS DE BAHA Tranexamic Serum | Both are short ingredient lists with disclosed concentrations. Neither is established as stronger than the other |
| Skin that reacts easily, currently settled | SKIN1004 Tone Brightening Capsule Ampoule | NINE LESS B-Boost, if you tolerate it | Lowest actives, fragrance-free, alcohol-free. Patch-test regardless |
| Oily or combination, humid conditions | Any watery serum — SKIN1004, Anua Azelaic 10, The Ordinary | Haruharu 4% TXA | Vehicle only. The pigment biology is identical; a lighter texture simply gets worn |
| Dry or dehydrated, or you want fewer steps | AXIS-Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Cream | A watery serum plus your usual moisturiser | Combines the moisturiser and the treatment step |
| Experienced, already tolerant, replacing several products | Anua Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% | Medicube TXA Niacinamide 15 | Only worth it as a consolidation. Adding either on top of another niacinamide serum duplicates ingredients |
| Already comfortable with retinoids, not pregnant or trying to conceive | Purito TXA 6 Niacinamide 10 Retinal | Keep your existing retinoid and add nothing | Contains retinal. Not a starting product |
| Pregnant or trying to conceive | Photoprotection, and a clinician conversation first | Azelaic acid is the most defensible direction, if your clinician agrees | Retinoids are out. For TXA, arbutin and kojic acid the evidence is insufficient either way |
Pathway 3 — Brown marks after acne or inflammation
| Your situation | Take | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Still breaking out | Anua Azelaic Acid 10, SKIN1004 Azelaic Acid 10 Ampoule or NINE LESS A-Control 10% | Azelaic acid works on the breakouts and the marks. Fading marks while new spots keep forming is running to stand still |
| Breakouts controlled, marks remain | Any row from the treatment table that suits your texture | Once inflammation has stopped this behaves much like the melasma pathway — though these marks more often fade on their own |
| Oily but tight and dehydrated | A watery serum with a light moisturiser over it | Stripping oily skin produces irritation, and irritation produces more marks |
| Already using a retinoid or acid | Nothing new yet | Layering a pigment active onto an existing retinoid or acid is the most common route to fresh marks |
Pathway 4 — Red or pink post-acne marks
This is the pathway where the useful advice is to buy nothing from the treatment table. If the marks are predominantly red or pink rather than brown, a melanin-directed serum may be aimed at the wrong target, and we have no product in the range we would put forward as a treatment for it.
What is reasonable: gentle cleansing, a comfortable barrier — a cream from the barrier table if you need one — sunscreen so nothing darkens on top of the redness, and treating any ongoing breakouts. If the redness persists, that is a conversation with a healthcare professional rather than another purchase.
Pathway 5 — Isolated sun-spot-like marks
Consistent photoprotection is the strongest thing available here, and it works better as prevention than correction. Established spots of this kind respond least well to cosmetic products.
If you want to try something, the gentler rows — The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin or the SKIN1004 ampoule — are reasonable low-irritation choices, with expectations set low. We would not push a high-percentage tranexamic acid serum at this pattern simply because the box says dark spots. A single spot that is changing, growing or looks different from your others belongs in the red-flag section above, not in a routine.
Adjust the texture, not the pigment biology
| If your skin feels… | Favour |
|---|---|
| Oily or combination | Watery serums and fluid sunscreens; a lighter moisturiser rather than none |
| Dry | The same active with a more emollient moisturiser around it — or a cream-format product that does both |
| Oily but tight and dehydrated | Lightweight hydration rather than stripping. A hydration problem, not an oil problem |
| Reactive or easily irritated | Fewer actives, lower concentrations, fragrance-free where possible, slower start |
| Comfortable and used to actives | A wider choice of formats — and the same rule against stacking overlapping products |
Our range also includes pigment-directed toners, toner pads, eye creams, body lotions and sleeping masks, along with several products whose manufacturers we are still checking. They are not listed above because we have not yet verified their formulas to the standard we have applied here, and we would rather leave a gap than fill it with a number we cannot stand behind. If you are looking at something in store that does not appear here, ask us and we will tell you what we know and what we do not.
Building the routine
The structure below is deliberately short. Most people's pigmentation routines fail because they contain too much, not too little.
Morning
- Gentle cleanse, or just water if your skin is dry
- Moisturiser, if you use one
- Sunscreen — generously, roughly a quarter-teaspoon for the face, and reapplied through the day when you are outdoors
- If you are using an iron-oxide base for visible-light protection, it goes on last, over the sunscreen
Evening
- Cleanse
- Your one pigment-directed product
- Moisturiser
Some pigment products are fine in the morning too — azelaic acid is often used twice daily, for instance — so follow the directions for the specific product you have bought rather than a general rule from an article.
Introduce one new thing at a time
As a cautious approach, we suggest starting a new leave-on treatment product at a low frequency — often two or three applications a week where the manufacturer's directions allow — building up as your skin tolerates it, and not beginning a second new active until you know how the first one behaves. That is our conservative onboarding suggestion rather than a clinical guideline, and the directions on the product you buy take precedence over it. Some brands are explicit about this: Anua directs starting its azelaic serum once or twice weekly with one or two drops. The reasoning is not caution for its own sake. If you start three things at once and your skin reacts, you have no way of knowing which one caused it, and you will probably abandon all three. If it goes well, you equally have no idea what helped. Patch-test on a small area first, and give any new product several weeks before judging it.
What you may not need to buy
Commercial honesty means telling you when the answer is not a product, so here is the list of things people routinely buy for pigmentation that they usually do not need.
- A separate niacinamide serum, if your chosen pigment product already contains niacinamide. Most of the options above do. Adding another is duplication, not reinforcement.
- A brightening toner and a brightening serum and a brightening cream from the same range. Ranges are built to be sold together, not because pigmentation needs four steps.
- An exfoliating acid, in most cases. It is not a required part of a pigmentation routine, and over-exfoliation is one of the more common ways people make marks worse.
- A replacement for a product that is working. If you already own something with a suitable ingredient and your skin is comfortable with it, use it up first. Nothing here is a reason to bin a functioning product.
- Anything at all, this week, if your skin is currently stinging or peeling. Sunscreen and a plain moisturiser, then reassess.
"It is easy to buy four products at once because each one sounds right. In practice that usually means more irritation and no way of knowing what worked."
— Ashfaq Ramjaun, FCCA, MBA, Co-Founder & CMO, Adilsons BeautyThere is also a technique point that outperforms most purchases: applying enough sunscreen, and reapplying it. Someone using a modest serum with thorough sun protection will generally do better than someone using an excellent serum with a thin morning-only layer of SPF.
What to realistically expect
Pigmentation is slow, and the honest timeline depends on which pattern you have. We are not going to give you a number of weeks, because the evidence does not support one universal figure and the factors that vary — the cause, the depth of the pigment, sun exposure, whether the original trigger has actually stopped, the product, the frequency, your tolerance and your consistency — matter more than any average.
| Pattern | Realistic outlook | What to watch |
|---|---|---|
| Melasma-like patches | Often chronic, with a real tendency to recur. Improvement generally means sustained management and a maintenance phase, not a finish line | Whether the contrast between patch and surrounding skin softens, and whether flares get smaller and less frequent |
| Brown marks after inflammation | Frequently improve gradually once the inflammation stops, though deeper marks can take a long time. Products may help; stopping the cause does more | Marks fading from the edges inward, and — more importantly — whether new ones are still appearing |
| Red or pink post-acne marks | Often settle over time as the skin recovers. Pigment-directed products are not the main lever here | Whether the colour is fading, and whether new inflammatory spots are still forming |
| Isolated sun-spot-like marks | Established spots respond least well to cosmetic products. Prevention is the stronger play | Whether new ones are appearing — that is the more meaningful measure than whether old ones lighten |
There are limits worth naming. Cosmetic skincare works mostly at the surface, and pigment sitting deeper in the skin responds more slowly and less completely. DermNet notes that peels, lasers and intense pulsed light may help surface pigmentation but can also aggravate it by injuring the epidermis, and are not effective for deeper pigment. The 2026 international consensus similarly advises that resurfacing procedures be used cautiously. That is not an argument against professional treatment — it is an argument for it being chosen by a clinician who has examined your skin, rather than pursued as an obvious next step when a serum has not delivered.
When to see a healthcare professional
Seek assessment from an appropriate healthcare professional if a pigmented spot is changing in size, shape or colour, has an irregular border or more than one colour within it, looks clearly different from your other spots, or itches, bleeds, crusts or will not heal. The same applies to severe, painful or scarring acne, spreading redness or warmth, any eye involvement, and a persistent unexplained rash.
Beyond urgency, professional assessment is simply the more useful next step in several ordinary situations: when you cannot tell which pattern you are dealing with, when pigmentation has not responded to months of consistent sun protection and one appropriate product, when it keeps returning, when you are pregnant or breastfeeding and want a clear answer on what is appropriate, or when you are considering a procedure. A dermatologist can distinguish between things that look alike on a face but not under examination.
Checking availability at Adilsons Beauty
Our range changes and availability is dynamic, so any product mentioned here may or may not be available on a given day. Please check the current status on adilsons.mu rather than assuming — the product links above go to our search so you always see what is live now.
If something you want is showing as out of stock, go to that product's page and click Notify Me, then enter your email address. We restock frequently — roughly every three weeks as a general cycle. That is how often we bring stock in overall, not a guaranteed restock date for any individual product, so please read it as an indication rather than a promise.
Two things worth knowing. If around three weeks pass and you still have not received a restock notification, message us and mention that you already submitted your email and have been waiting about three weeks — we can then look into it and confirm the situation for you. And if a product matters to you, you are welcome to message us after registering your interest to tell us you would like it restocked. That helps us see real demand when we plan what to bring in.
Questions, or want help choosing?
If you are unsure which pattern resembles your skin, or which single product to start with, message us on WhatsApp and we will talk it through. We are happy to tell you when we think the answer is not a product — including when the honest answer is to wait until your skin has settled.
Please note we do not take orders or payments over WhatsApp — orders go through adilsons.mu only.
Visit us at Citadelle Mall for a free skincare consultation
If you would rather talk it through in person, come and see us. Adilsons Beauty is at Shop 12, Citadelle Mall, Sir Virgil Naz Street, Port Louis. We offer a free in-store skincare consultation with your purchase — no appointment needed, just walk in during shop opening hours and ask. Our hours are kept up to date on our Google Business Profile, so it is worth checking before you travel, as mall hours can change.
The consultation is cosmetic skincare guidance to help you choose between products and understand what each one does. It is not a medical or diagnostic service, and we will tell you when we think the answer is not a product at all.
Frequently asked questions
Is a higher percentage of tranexamic acid better for dark spots?
Not on the current evidence. Published studies use a range of concentrations and formulations, and a 2026 systematic review and meta-analysis found a modest overall benefit for tranexamic acid over placebo rather than a dose-ranking. No optimum concentration has been established, so a 6% product is not demonstrably stronger than a 2% one. Choose between products on formulation, texture and how well your skin tolerates them, not on the number printed on the front.
Do I need a tinted sunscreen for melasma?
Tinted sunscreens containing iron oxides are specifically recommended by the American Academy of Dermatology because they add protection against visible light, which standard sunscreens are not designed to block. We carry Beauty of Joseon Daily Tinted Fluid Sunscreen in four shades, which contains iron oxides, though its labelled SPF is 40 or 30 depending on the market rather than 50. If no available shade matches you, the 2026 international consensus suggests a well-balanced UVB and UVA sunscreen with an iron-oxide-containing makeup product matched to your skin tone worn over it.
Is tranexamic acid safe to use during pregnancy?
Nobody has established that, and we will not claim it either way. Melasma studies routinely exclude pregnant and breastfeeding participants, so pregnancy-specific evidence for topical tranexamic acid does not exist. Low expected absorption is a reasonable assumption, not proof of safety. Azelaic acid has the more reassuring professional position among pigmentation ingredients, and retinoids should be avoided. Please discuss any pigmentation product with your doctor or midwife.
My post-acne marks are red rather than brown. Will a dark-spot serum help?
Possibly not, because red and pink marks after acne reflect a redness pattern rather than excess pigment, so a product designed to reduce melanin may be aimed at the wrong target. Gentle care while the skin recovers, along with controlling any ongoing breakouts, is usually more sensible than escalating brightening actives. If the redness persists or the pattern is unclear, a healthcare professional can tell you far more than a product description can.
Can I use two brightening serums at once for faster results?
We would not suggest it. There is no good evidence that layering several cosmetic brightening products outperforms one appropriate product, and there are two real costs: overlapping ingredients you are paying for twice, and no way to identify which product caused a reaction if your skin becomes irritated. Irritation can itself contribute to pigmentation, so a more complicated routine can work against the result you want.
How much sunscreen should I actually be applying?
More than most people do. The 2026 international consensus on pigmentation disorders suggests an even layer of roughly a quarter of a teaspoon for the face, reapplied at least twice daily if you are regularly outdoors, while the American Academy of Dermatology advises reapplying every two hours and after swimming or sweating. Shade, a wide-brimmed hat and avoiding the strongest part of the day all add meaningful protection alongside the product.
Will my dark spots come back after they fade?
They can, particularly with melasma-like pigmentation, which has a recognised tendency to recur. That is why ongoing sun protection matters more than any treatment phase, and why maintenance is part of the plan rather than a sign that something failed. Marks left after acne or irritation are less likely to return in the same place, provided the original cause has genuinely stopped.
This article is cosmetic skincare education. It is not medical advice and is not intended to diagnose or treat any skin condition. Pigmented spots that are changing, or any persistent, painful or spreading skin change, should be assessed by an appropriate healthcare professional. If you are pregnant, breastfeeding or trying to conceive, discuss any skincare active with your doctor or midwife. Always follow the directions supplied with any product you use, and patch-test new products.
Sources
- American Academy of Dermatology — Melasma: Self-care and How to fade dark spots in darker skin tones
- American Academy of Dermatology — What to look for: ABCDEs of melanoma and Melanoma: Signs and symptoms
- Passeron T, Desai SR, Abdallah M, et al. — Global consensus on the management of melanin hyperpigmentation disorders, Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 2026
- Scabine Pessotti N, et al. — The use of tranexamic acid to treat melasma: a systematic review and meta-analysis, Dermatologic Therapy, 2026
- DermNet — Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation and Lentigo
- Manufacturer product documentation — SKIN1004, Anua and TIRTIR
About the author
Ashfaq Ramjaun, FCCA, MBA, is Co-Founder and Chief Marketing Officer of Adilsons Beauty, a top K-beauty and J-beauty retailer in Mauritius. Adilsons Beauty works barrier-first: supporting the skin barrier before adding treatment actives. Adilsons Beauty is located at Shop 12, Citadelle Mall, Sir Virgil Naz Street, Port Louis, and online at adilsons.mu. This article is based on published dermatology guidance and manufacturer product information, both cited above.
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